Though the credit for inventing the modern brassiere goes to Mary Phelps Jacob, women have had the additional sartorial challenge of containing the breasts in order to ease movement since the dawn of time. We have wrapped and padded ourselves variously to suit the both the whims of fashion and the variety of size and shapes among women.
DeBevoise ad circa 1915
Early bras were thought of as promoting health, as well as offering "protection," (from what, we're no longer sure.) As usual, advertising played a large role in establishing womens need for this specialty undergarment.
In 1946, a film called "The Outlaw" was released starring an unknown actress named Jane Russell. Though it had been filmed five years earlier, producer Howard Hughes had a tough time getting the picture past the censorship board due to the way it portrayed the generous assets of the full-figured Russell. Hughes had a new bra designed for Russell, with an underwire that created structure independently of the straps.
The release of this film was a bit of a turning point in the consciousness of the male viewer.
Then, in 1947, Christian Dior launched his first collection, later known as the "New Look." The "hourglass figure" was born. Women now had a new template by which to measure themselves.
What this did to the undergarment industry was that now, instead of concealing and controlling, (you know, for our health,) women's breasts were the main attraction, meant to be out front, practically on the attack, like a torpedo or bullet.
And oh yes, it's all about the male gaze.
In the 50s, the Maidenform ad campaign made quite an impression, though I wonder if many women saw these fantasies of being in their underwear in public as more of a nightmare.
Then in the late 1960s, feminism emerged into the consciousness of American women, and the advertisers that marketed to them. Now the bra needed to represent freedom.
The 1970s may have been a decade of natural look for breasts, but the 80s brought Madonna, with her lingerie-as-outerwear, and Jean Paul Gaultier, with his retro nod to the history of undergarments.
Now in 2010 we have what's-her-name's secret, constantly reminding us about our standing on the "hotness" scale, and celebutantes bragging about their plastic surgery.
Being modestly endowed myself, all I need is a plain cotton sports bra and I'm good to go. I own two. Take that, advertisers.